Before long, we found ourselves stretched out under a palm tree on a little patch of grass just off the board walk. We spent most of the afternoon here just reading, napping, people watching and enjoying each others company. The races were schedule to start around 6pm when the tide went out, exposing the beach front track.
It was quite a site to see, with all the beach goers wading and enjoying the surf one moment, and then the mass exodus from the water when the guardia civil (Spanish Civil Guard or police) drove down the beach front waving all the people back up onto the beach. The spectators sitting on the beach are only separted from the thundering race horses by an orange mesh construction fence. Talk about being close to the action! How exactly the races started is unclear. One story is that fish buyers raced the horses along the beach as they waited for trawlers to bring in their haul to the port. One story is that people raced donkeys along the banks for fun and eventually upgraded to horses. What is known is that a horse racing society was established in Sanlucar in 1845, creating a tradition that would become a part of the city’s cultural fabric. Miguel Sanchez Delage, an insurance businessman who has directed the race for the last 17 years, said that the races have grown and are "1,000 times better." The race once was considered for rich people only. But there is little that separates the elite from the common folk at the races today.
Each of the races were pretty short but it was well worth seeing. One peculiarly unique aspect of these races, is that the bets here are taken right on the beach, at little home made booths run by the young children of Sanlúcar! All the bets have pretty low maximums like 1 or 2 euros per horse, but it adds a little fun to have a chance of your horse winning will get you a little prize as well!
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