The first leg of our journey began with our patented "Brad and Kristin Carter travel run around." After close to two hours of delay in the terminal and on the tarmac, we managed to make it into the air and over to the Frankfurt-Hahn Airport just as it was getting dark. We grabbed the rental car and hit the road. Germany did not appear to be happy to see us when the slight drizzle that greeted us on the tarmac promptly turned into an all out down pouring rain before we even hit the autobahn. We arrived in Muninch, or München as its called in Germany, to our hotel which advertised "24hour reception" ...well by that they mean we will leave a paper with your name and room number posted at the front desk and your room key will be in the lock to your apartment! Although it was unorthodox we were glad to be where we were headed, and promptly racked out for the night.
The next morning we were up early and off to our first destination, Dachau Concentration Camp. The bright but overcast weather was a perfect back drop to the solemn memorial site. There was so much emotion in the sterile setting. The stories conveyed by the excellent audio guide provided a graphic insight in to the conditions that those poor souls endured.
The main gate under the west guard tower has the camps foundational phrase emblazoned in wrought iron, translated it means, "work makes us free." We walked through the main yard were prisoners lined up everyday to be accounted for, and came upon the memorial monument constructed in this main yard to bring visitors through the prisoners plight.
The journey begins by descending down a concrete ramp, feeling the sterile walls rise as your spirits fall. At the center there is a colorful art piece inspired by the symbols that the Nazi's used to label and demean the prisoners. This piece was to show the camaraderie that formed among the prisoners to help carry them through the unthinkable suffering that was forced upon them. At the very lowest point a haunting sculpture looms overhead immortalizing the many that died by entangling themselves in the electrified barbed wire fencing. After the long and slow accent from that lowest point, the memorial ends with a promise in 5 different languages, "Never Again," and one of the many markers serving as a grave for the unnamed ashes. It was a very power experience.
Besides the memorial monument, there were exhibits set up all through out the camp. In the old barracks they had recreations of the conditions where the prisoners were forces to sleep by the thousands even though they were only built to house hundreds. The old SS buildings were filled with room after room of propaganda posters, reproductions of the original camp documents, and of course haunting pictures of the prisoners at every stage of this horrible process. At the rear of the camp there have been several religious monuments constructed to represent the many faiths persecuted during the war.
Just outside the original camp fence line, the crematoriums stood across the river and shaded behind the trees. The only prisoners allowed over here were either those forced to work here, or those who had finally been pushed beyond their limits and expired. The original crematorium was unable to keep up with the "production" of the camp, so a larger facility was built. Much like the rest of the camp these buildings were cloaked in shadow and gloom, as solemn visitors slowly walked through the rooms and the surrounding gardens, paying their respects the many unnamed lost.
We left the camp with heavy hearts but sound minds, feeling better that we had learned so much about that dark part of the worlds history. We ate lunch at a small cafe in the heart of Munich, and set our sights on lighter horizons. We set out into the misty German countryside for Neuschwanstein Castle. Apparently the German countryside doesn't publish many updates to the GPS community because we had one hell of time finding our way there! But after a few wrong turns and extra kilometers we finally made it, and through the mist the almost mythical castle came into view. We took a bus up the mountain to tour the castle, and take some pictures of the outside. The mist made it difficult to get any great shots, but it was magical non the less. There are no photos allowed inside the castle which was a shame since it was so magnificently decorated. The castle is a modge podge blending of mid-evil, baroque, and modern styles dreamed up by the famed crazy King Ludwig II. After our tour of the castle, the early dusk had fallen and the walk back to the bus stop was pretty dark. After sitting there for a few minutes, we came to the realization that we must have missed the last bus! Sitting in the dark debating about walking down the narrow and slightly treacherous pitch black bus route, we heard some voices approaching. A couple of strangers with two young girls walked up. We broke the bad news about the bus, and after a little talking and a little more waiting we decided to walk back around to the horse cart path, and make our way down the mountain as a group. It was quite the unique experience, and very unforgettable.
With much more ease than getting to the castle, we made it back into Munich and found our way to the famed Hofbräuhaus, for some BIG beers and delicious German fare! The atmosphere inside still resonated of the spirit of Oktoberfest with music, lederhosen, exuberant crowds and of course more beer than you could shake a stick at. It was a perfect ending to this more than eventful day!
Our second and final day in Munich we toured the city visiting the Marienplatz which houses Munich's Town Hall and the century old Glockenspiel. We were fortunate enough to arrive right as the towers bells began to sound, and its figures began to move. It was a breathtaking sight. Only steps outside the Marienplatz we found ourselves in Viktualienmarkt, Munich's huge farmers market. It was a delight just to stroll through the intoxicating sights and smells of the 140 booths. Garlands of sausages, pyramids of the most beautiful fruits and vegetables, cheeses, wines, pastas and spices, you name and they had it! It was a foodies heaven on earth! Although we were sad to go, we had to hit the road, and move on to our next adventure; Ramstein Air Base, and the Landstuhl Regional Medical Center for my PRK surgery.
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